Secrets of Orkney: Neolithic Marvels and Timeless Coastal Beauty
Amidst the endless plains and rolling hills of the Orkney Islands, with the cold wind slapping our cheeks and swelling the waves of the sea, we seem to have fallen into a timeless world apart, where one expects legends and fairy tales to come true. Instead, we are simply off the coast of Scotland, in the North Sea, in an ancient archipelago that makes you fall in love with its changing skies and distinctive scents, archaeological wonders and ancient Gaelic songs.
Location and History
Situated 20 km north of the Caithness coast, from which it is separated by the Pentland Firth, the cluster of islands was annexed to the Kingdom of Scotland in 1472 but much earlier, in the 1st century BC, it was referred to by the geologist Claudius Ptolemy as Orcades, which probably came from the Gaelic name Insi Orc, meaning ‘island of the boar’. Today, from an administrative point of view, the more than one hundred islands constitute one of the 32 Unitary Authorities of Scotland and their capital is Kirkwall, on the main island called Mainland. The second town, with about 2 000 inhabitants, is called Stromness and is located on the same island, while the third settlement, Margaret’s Hope, is on South Ronaldsay.
Island Groups and Geography
Beyond the Mainland, the other islands are classified according to their position in relation to this main body, dividing into northern and southern. The former are also the most numerous, medium-sized and connected to Mainland by numerous ferry rides; of these, the smallest are called ‘holms’. The islands to the south, on the other hand, lie around the Gulf of Scapa Flow.
Heart of Neolithic Orkney
The islands are famous for the presence of a prehistoric complex called the ‘Heart of Neolithic Orkney’, a label chosen by UNESCO in 1999 when it declared it a World Heritage Site. The site consists of four parts, the first of which, Maeshowe, consists of a set of very distinctive-looking tombs, different from other burial chambers found on Orkney or elsewhere in Scotland. As much as 30 tonnes of sandstone make up this fascinating burial site, the largest in the archipelago, where each tomb is oriented in such a way that the central chamber is illuminated on the winter solstice.
The second prehistoric wonder is the Erect Stones of Stenness, 30-cm-thick flat boards arranged to form a huge circle surrounded by a moat. Similar in shape is the third site, the Brodgar Circle, situated on the narrow isthmus separating Lakes Stenness and Harray: built probably around 2500 BC, almost contemporary with the famous Stonehenge stone circle, it has a diameter of over 100 metres and is therefore the third largest in the UK. And finally, the large Neolithic settlement of Skara Brae, which stands near 500 BC. It is the most complete and best-preserved Neolithic village in Europe. Skaill Bay and consists of about ten dwellings, probably used between 3100 BC and 2000.
Other Must-See Attractions
But with the huge stones that make up the archaeological sites, the beauty of Orkney is not exhausted. It is not easy to list all the attractions that lie hidden on the islands, of which there are seventy in all, but it is worth mentioning a few truly unmissable details. Such as the island of Hoy, the first to be encountered if arriving by sea from the south, with its imposing-looking cliff bastion and reddish colouring. Here rise the highest cliffs in the entire archipelago and there are some particularly interesting monuments, such as the mysterious Dwarfie Stane and the grave of Betty Corrigal. The landscape of the western cliffs, overlooking Rackwick Bay, is worthy of a romantic painting, with its 137 metre high red sandstone stacks nicknamed Old Man of Hoy.
Also worth seeing is Shapinsay, so close to Mainland that it can be considered Kirkwall’s suburban area, with constant commuter traffic from the capital where they work, returning every evening by making a 25-minute crossing. Balfour Castle, with its baronial-style towers and turrets, looks like a fairy-tale building, around which the picturesque seaside village gathers.
Art lovers will find inspiration at the Pier Arts Centre gallery in Stromness, which has recently undergone a successful renovation that has given it a scenic, state-of-the-art look. Despite its modern architecture, which is among the most spectacular in northern Scotland, the building blends harmoniously into the island landscape and the harbour setting. Inside one can admire 20th century works by great artists such as Alfred Wallis, Barbara Hepworth, and painters associated with the culture of the sea.
A novel would not be enough to narrate the adventures that can be enjoyed in the Orkney Islands . Amidst enchanting and poignant landscapes, made up of melancholic sandy shores or rocky cliffs, everyone can carve out the holiday of their choice: the environment is perfect for walking, taking impressive photographs, reading a good book in the shade of a tree, but also practising all sorts of outdoor sports and admiring the wonders of nature. Nature here showcases characteristic plant species and features numerous bird and mammal species, including friendly seals. The clear, cold waters of the North Sea provide delicious fish, crustaceans and shellfish to be enjoyed in some cosy inn, accompanied by a good Scotch whisky or beer.
The Orkney climate, cold but not as harsh as other areas at the same latitude, only adds to the charm of the landscape, painting the skies leaden or bright. Average temperatures in January, the coldest month, range from a low of 0°C to a high of 5°C, while July and August range from 10°C to 18°C. Rainfall, which is more concentrated in summer, averages between 1 and 13 days per month.
How to Reach the Orkney Islands
To reach the Orkney archipelago one can use the aeroplane, with flights from Aberdeen, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, and from Sumburgh in the Shetland Islands, all direct toKirkwall Airport. Local bus services provide access to the centre of Kirkwall and Stromness once landed. In addition, Loganair operates a year-round domestic service with connecting flights between Orkney’s smaller airports and the capital’s airport. A curiosity: among these is the world’s shortest scheduled flight, which connects the islands of Westray and Papa Westray and takes just two minutes! Those wishing to reach the islands by ferry can set sail from Aberdeen, Scrabster, Gills Bay and John o’ Groats. The crossing takes about 90 minutes.
