From Colonial Beginnings to a Bustling Metropolis: The Story of Suva, Fiji’s Capital
The city of Suva is home to almost 350,000 inhabitants and lies on the southeastern coast of Viti Levu, within the Central Fiji administrative division, of which it is also the capital. This bustling urban hub is not only the capital of the Fiji archipelago but also its major commercial and political center, making it the largest city in the South Pacific, excluding New Zealand and Australia. Suva boasts a reasonably-sized port where merchant ships, luxury yachts, and cruises packed with tourists from all over the world regularly dock.
The Origins of Suva: From Village to Metropolis
The village was founded toward the end of the 19th century when Europeans who had arrived on the island of Viti Levu decided to create a new capital in place of the old Levuka, which they deemed to have no room for expansion. Thus, in 1882, Suva was born, and from the very beginning, the town proved to be extremely active and industrious, growing significantly in size from decade to decade. The old Fijian village of Suva was moved a few years after its foundation to a new location three miles away, under the name Suvavou, or “New Suva.” The definitive transition from town to metropolis was triggered by the expansion in 1952, when Suva incorporated the nearby settlements of Muanikau and Samabula.
A Cosmopolitan Capital
Suva is a sprawling city with a cosmopolitan feel, occupying a small peninsula jutting out into the Pacific Ocean. Grand colonial buildings sit alongside modern skyscrapers and shopping malls. Curry houses, sari shops, and bric-a-brac stalls line narrow streets that are reminiscent of Indian towns. An airy esplanade with magnificent views of Suva Harbour and Joske’s Thumb stretches along the western edge of the city, while the density of the central business district diminishes as you move toward the residential areas perched on the hills.
The atmosphere is very pleasant, with friendly people, despite the fact that about half of Suva‘s population lives in overcrowded settlements on untitled land, where crime and poverty are serious issues. Add to this the shops, tourist attractions, and restaurants, and Suva can easily become the ideal destination for a two or three-day visit.
Things to See in Suva
There are many things to see in Suva:
- Fiji Museum: A splendid museum that traces the archaeological, political, cultural, and linguistic evolution of Fiji through authentic artifacts such as musical instruments, ceramics, jewelry, and a magnificent double-hulled canoe.
- Thurston Gardens: Small but beautiful gardens with tropical environments, with patches of indigenous flora scattered across emerald green lawns.
- Colo-i-Suva Forest Park: A lush tropical forest located 11 kilometers from the city center at an altitude of 1,800 meters, representing a cool and quiet refuge from urban chaos.
Other attractions include the imposing government buildings at the end of Carnarvon St, built on heavy foundations on reclaimed land. The Parliament Buildings, opened in 1992, are adorned with traditional tapa cloth and various artworks, making them a must-see. The University of the South Pacific’s Laucala Campus is also worth a visit, with its spacious gardens and small botanical garden filled with Pacific trees and plants.
Climate and When to Visit
The climate of Suva is both maritime and tropical, meaning it is mild and humid for most of the year. Temperatures rarely exceed 30 degrees or fall below 20, typically remaining around 25 degrees Celsius. The rainy season, extending from November to April, brings abundant rainfall, as Suva is located on one of the rainiest islands in the archipelago. The best time to visit is from May to October when rainfall is scarcer and the heat is less oppressive.
Getting There and Moving Around
The city is served by Nausori International Airport, the country’s largest airport, located 23 kilometers northeast of the city center. In addition to frequent local buses running along Queens Rd and Kings Rd from the main terminal in Suva, small trucks and vans shuttle passengers along Queens Rd. For groups, a taxi often costs just a little more than a bus. However, exploring the city center on foot is highly recommended.
