Mel in 2023: Explore Italy’s Hidden Historical Gem in Valbelluna
After the Byzantine Castelvint fortress was destroyed in a fierce battle, the decision was made to construct a “twin” fortress about 300 meters distant from the original site. As a result of the process of contraction, the Castrum Gemellarum eventually evolved into the much simpler Zumellarum, and then finally Mel.
Today, these three letters alone designate one of the most evocative settlements in the Veneto, namely in Valbelluna, a lovely location in the province of Belluno, Veneto.
Because of the indescribable beauty of its historic center, Mel has been included on the list of Italy’s most beautiful villages and has been given the orange flag by the Italian Touring Club. The question naturally arises: What is it about this that is so appealing to all of these different appreciations?
History of Mel
This is something that history teaches us, as it shows how, over the course of time, a reality that is wholly dependent on its citadel has developed. Let’s think about the fact that the Castle of Zumelle stood guard over the Praderadego Pass throughout the fierce wars that took place between the Ostrogoths and the Byzantines. In subsequent years, the Praderadego Pass became a cause of contention between bishops and dioceses, and in the meanwhile, ideas for high structural strengthening were discovered. The fortification reached its zenith in the 12th century, when it had four walls and the same number of towers.
In the 1300s, Rizzardo da Camino was responsible for its reconstruction. Subsequently, Giorgio Zorzi was responsible for its restoration before handing it to the Grittis. The Grittis eventually sold it to the town of Mel. In 1937, the National Archaeological Museum of Venice made an immediate purchase of a fibula in the shape of a panther. This fibula was a Celtic silver relic that dated back to the 5th century.
Things to see and do in Mel
In order to provide a scenographic backdrop that was arranged in a trapezoidal spatial orientation, the main plaza was framed by monuments and palaces that dated back to the time when the Serenissima Republic of Venice was in power. Other noble buildings were also included in this framing.
In this area, you’ll find the Palazzo Zorzi elected municipal seat, which dates back to the sixteenth century, the Palazzo Fulcis (which on the second weekend of October hosts the Apple Market Exhibition, concurrent with the Crafts Exhibition spread along the streets of the historic center), and the adjacent villa of the same name (one of which dates back to the eighteenth century and the other to the previous century). The Palazzo delle Contesse can be found to the north-west of the square, and just adjacent to it is the Palazzo Barbuio, which is the oldest.
The beautiful panorama is preceded by multiple noble houses, which serve as an introduction for the tourist to the ascent to the hilltop where Mel and its 6,000 inhabitants are located. It is important to recognize Villa Luzzati because of its chimneys, the Tempietto Fulcis since Giuseppe Segusini designed it in 1836, Villa Granelli and Villa Tonon (ex Migliorini), and so on. These are all significant buildings.
The imposing form of the parish church, which is designed in the Palladian style, dominates the northern side of the plaza. Not only is the church remarkable due to the fact that it possesses a number of priceless works produced during the sixteenth century by authors such as Girolamo Denti, Giovanni da Mel, and Cesare Vecellio, but it is also remarkable due to the fact that it is not the oldest church in the area. The Church of the Addolorata, which was originally established in the late fourteenth century but was later renovated owing to lightning damage in 1756, has the distinction of being the oldest church.
Nevertheless, a magnificent Pietà from the time when it was first being built has been preserved. The Lombard Church of San Donato may be found close to the Zumelle Castle; meanwhile, the Church of San Teonisto in Farra eagerly awaits visitors with its display of a Last Supper painting by Giovanni da Mel. Both of these churches are in Lombardy.
Festivals & events
Radicele is an annual spring market exhibition that takes place on the third Sunday of May. The wild herbs that are featured, such as dandelion, nettle, and hops, are not only the focus of the event, but they are also integral components of the traditional Belluno cuisine. This cuisine is rich in nutrient-dense dishes such as corn polenta, Sponcio and Schiz cheese, barley and bean soup, and orzotto with beer.
It is highly recommended that you go to the Apple Festival, which is held in the middle of October and is an exposition fair devoted to the delectable fruit.
Discover the Mel district under the shadow of the Zumello Prealps, a setting that is almost perfect and features farmsteads, mountain lodges, beech forests, ridge routes, and several bivouacs. Visit the Pilon (1,071 meters above sea level), the Costa Curta (1,202 meters above sea level), and the Vallon Scuro (1,202 meters above sea level).
The Azure Cavern (La grotta azzurra)
The ellipsoidal subterranean cistern that was built in the eighteenth century and is now known as the ancient ice house in Gazzera Park stored ice until the twentieth century.
The Blue Grotto is a popular tourist destination in Valbelluna, Italy, despite its secluded location in the Valbelluna forests, specifically between the Zumelle Castle and Villa di Villa. During the summer months, visitors come to the Blue Grotto in droves.
We suggest visiting this natural wonder in November, when the temperature is just right—not too chilly, but not so much that too many people are turned away—so that you may enjoy it without the crowds.
Ways to reach Mel
Take the Belluno exit off the A27 motorway, go along the SS 51 to Ponte nelle Alpi, and then turn onto the SP 1 towards Feltre, keeping an eye out for Mel’s signage.
The nearest stations are in Feltre and Belluno, with bus connections to the town; the airports “Marco Polo” in Venice and “Sant’Angelo” in Treviso are handy as well.
