Unveiling the Charms of Gubbio: Italy’s Medieval Gem in the Heart of Umbria
Gubbio, as we know it today, is a picturesque township that seems to embrace the entirety of Umbria and its capital, Perugia. The town is steeped in history, one that intricately intertwines with the profound religious beliefs of a land sanctified by the works of St. Francis of Assisi himself.
The Chronicles of Gubbio tell us that its current 32,000 residents inhabit an urban flower that has bloomed significantly since its ancient Roman era, a heritage that traces back to Prehistory. Gubbio had its fair share of conquerors—invaded by the Heruli and destroyed by the Goths in 552 A.D. only to be thoughtfully resurrected by Justinian’s Byzantines. This phoenix-like city stands proudly on the slopes of Mount Ingino, its skyline punctuated by imposing defensive towers.
The city found its character, and a burst of energy, when it was handed over to the Church by the Lombards. Established as a free Ghibelline city-state, Gubbio managed to expand its influence to over a hundred castles and an urban system designed for full-on development. However, its autonomy was cut short due to the victory of the Guelphs in 1263 and the ecclesiastical mismanagement that followed.
The Montefeltro family’s reign marked the city’s renaissance, embellished with intricate architectural marvels and works of art, setting the stage for its future amalgamation into the Papal State in 1624. It was only with the institutional changes brought about by Italian unification that Gubbio regained its cherished status as an independent municipality. Today, it stands as a fortress of Christian faith, emanating an aura of reflective religiosity.
Must-See Sights in Gubbio
As you traverse the slopes of Mount Ingino, you’ll notice that Gubbio’s layout is rather unique—five main roads connected by a maze of alleys and steps, a feature that transports you to the planning principles of the Middle Ages. The moment you step into the town, you’ll be overwhelmed by its scenic grandeur, a sensory overload that makes you feel inexplicably richer in spirit and mind.
Palazzo dei Consoli
Standing tall as the crown jewel is the Palazzo dei Consoli, one of Italy’s most beautiful monuments. Built in 1337, this elegant structure houses the Civic Museum, home to the enigmatic Eugubine Tables, and the Municipal Art Gallery, replete with works by local and Tuscan artists. Not far from it is the Palazzo Pretorio, unfinished yet regal, serving as the city hall.
Palazzo Ducale
From Lombard extraction comes the Palazzo Ducale, a paradigm of Renaissance architecture, restored to its former glory in the 15th century by Federico da Montefeltro. The building’s internal courtyard, exquisite rooms, and overall regality stand in stark contrast to its empty chambers, their precious furniture now residing in the world’s leading museums.
Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo
Other landmarks include the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo in San Martino, Palazzo del Bargello, and the Fontana dei Matti—a fountain that, according to tradition, grants the title of “madman” to those who circle it three times.
Sanctified Gubbio
For those devoted to sacred architecture, Gubbio offers a cornucopia of churches, from Cathedral dei Santi Mariano e Giacomo to lesser-known but equally venerable ones like San Francesco, San Giovanni Battista, Santa Maria della Vittoria, Sant’Agostino, and San Domenico. And let’s not forget the stone ruins of the Roman Theater just outside the town, a colossal amphitheater now hosting theatrical performances and annual events.
Sant’Ubaldo and Mount Ingino
The Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo towers at 850 meters above sea level, overseeing the town from atop Mount Ingino. This church is a must-see, with its five naves and a multitude of frescoes, including “The Baptism of Jesus” by Felice Damiani. It is here that you’ll find the wooden Ceri structures that feature prominently in the annual “Corsa dei Ceri” procession.
Perfect Spots for Selfies and Panoramic Photos
No trip to Gubbio would be complete without capturing its essence in photos. The upper reaches of Mount Ingino, especially around the Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo, provide a panoramic view that’s simply breathtaking. Another great spot is the Roman Theater—its ancient ruins and green surroundings offer a unique backdrop for any photo. Finally, you can’t miss Piazza Grande for that quintessential shot with the Palazzo dei Consoli.
The Local Economy and Crafts
The local economy is mainly centered on tourism, but it also continues to successfully carry forward ancient craftsmanship in ceramics, wrought iron, and wood. This promotes other activities related to violin making, leather and plasterwork, not to forget the production of stylish furniture and restoration work on the same. In short, within the framework of a still-vibrant and flourishing craftsmanship.
What’s on the Menu in Gubbio?
Then a more than legitimate question arises: what do you eat in Gubbio? The local cuisine, essential but genuine, has its roots in an ancient and prolific tradition that includes delicacies like white and black truffles—of which the territory is extremely rich—flavorful olive oil, game, fresh pasta, and top-quality cheeses (Pecorino) and cured meats. In this regard, in the fall, don’t miss the National White Truffle Market Exhibition.
- Torta al Testo: A flatbread with ancient Roman roots, often bursting with delicious fillings like cold cuts, cheese, or greens. This is the epitome of Umbrian comfort food.
- Truffle Risotto: This dish is the epitome of luxury, featuring Umbrian truffles melded into a creamy, aromatic risotto. It’s a flavor journey through the earthy landscapes of Umbria.
- Cinghiale in Porchetta: Wild boar seasoned with fennel and other aromatic herbs, then roasted to perfection. This dish captures the wild essence of Umbria’s countryside.
- Crescia: This yeasted flatbread is more than just a side. It’s often filled with a variety of cheeses and charcuterie, showcasing the region’s artisanal produce.
- Friccò: Think of a savory meat stew, sometimes even including lamb, chicken, and rabbit, all cooked to tender perfection. It’s a hearty dish that’s sure to satisfy any meat lover.
- Coratella di Agnello: This dish is not for the faint-hearted but is a delicacy in Umbria. Made from the heart, lungs, and liver of lamb, it’s sautéed with onion, garlic, and sometimes artichokes, offering a bold, rustic flavor.
- Strangozzi or Umbricelli: These are the quintessential Umbrian pasta shapes, often served with a range of sauces from truffle to tomato. They are an important staple and a proud representation of Gubbio’s culinary artistry.
- Brustengo: This is a local treat not to be missed! It’s basically a super thin pan fried bread made with simple ingredients like flour, water, and salt, then jazzed up with pancetta, Prosciutto di Norcia or salami, or for a sweet version, drizzled with honey.
How to Get to Gubbio
By car, you can take several highways, namely the A1 with an exit at Orte, then take the E45 towards Perugia until you get to Gubbio, or the A14 with an exit at Ancona Nord, then continue for Jesi, Fabriano, and finally Gubbio. By train, the Rome-Ancona line arrives at Fossato station, while the Florence-Terontola-Perugia line reaches Perugia/Fontivegge station with bus connections to Gubbio. The nearest airport is Sant’Egidio in Perugia, approximately 45 km from the village.
Where to eat in Gubbio
1. Ristorante da Baffone
Price Range: Mid-tier (€€)
Recommended Dish: Pappardelle al Tartufo (Wide pasta ribbons with truffle sauce)
Located in the heart of the historic center, Da Baffone is renowned for its use of local truffles. Think the intense aroma of truffles wafting through the air as you savor each bite—utterly sublime.
2. Osteria dei Re
Price Range: Upscale (€€€)
Recommended Dish: Agnello in Crosta di Erbe (Herb-crusted Lamb)
An eatery that makes you feel like royalty, Osteria dei Re delivers on sophisticated dishes made from locally-sourced meats and produce. The herb-crusted lamb is to die for; tender, juicy, and exploding with flavors that dance on your tongue.
3. Taverna del Lupo
Price Range: High-end (€€€€)
Recommended Dish: Risotto ai Porcini (Porcini Mushroom Risotto)
The spot for luxury dining in Gubbio. It’s the place where the rich and famous go to dine when they’re in town. The porcini mushroom risotto is cooked to perfection—creamy, dreamy, and packed with umami.
4. La Panara
Price Range: Budget-friendly (€)
Recommended Dish: Piadina with Prosciutto and Cheese
If you’re looking for something more casual but still delicious, head over to La Panara. Their piadinas (Italian flatbreads) are out of this world and come stuffed with various fillings like prosciutto and cheese.
5. Trattoria La Grotta
Price Range: Mid-tier (€€)
Recommended Dish: Cinghiale in Umido (Stewed Wild Boar)
A cozy, family-run place where you can enjoy traditional Umbrian dishes. The stewed wild boar is a mouthwatering dish that reflects the local culture of hunting and gathering.
Where to sleep in Gubbio
1. Park Hotel Ai Cappuccini
Price Range: Upscale (€€€€)
Type: Hotel
This hotel marries modern comfort with historical elegance. Expect rooms that feel like royal chambers, complete with spa facilities to help you unwind.
2. Hotel Relais Ducale
Price Range: Mid-tier (€€€)
Type: Hotel
Nestled right in the heart of Gubbio, this hotel provides direct access to the town’s major attractions. The rooftop garden offers a stunning view of the medieval cityscape.
3. Agriturismo Kebio
Price Range: Budget-friendly (€€)
Type: Bed & Breakfast
If you’re a nature buff, this B&B set in the lush Umbrian countryside is for you. Enjoy homemade, organic breakfasts before setting out for a day of exploration.
4. Villa Contessa
Price Range: Upscale (€€€€)
Type: Villa
The ultimate in Italian luxury. This private villa comes with its own pool and garden. A perfect choice for travelers looking for exclusivity and privacy.
5. Coldimolino Country House
Price Range: Mid-tier (€€€)
Type: Villa
With views over the Umbrian hills, this country house offers a tranquil stay. The large estate allows for hikes and the rooms have that rustic Italian charm.
6. B&B Al Podestà
Price Range: Budget-friendly (€)
Type: Bed & Breakfast
This quaint B&B in the town center provides basic but clean rooms. Ideal for budget travelers who prioritize location and don’t mind skipping on luxuries.
7. Hotel Gattapone
Price Range: Mid-tier (€€)
Type: Hotel
A stone’s throw away from Gubbio’s historic center, this hotel is a solid mid-range option with excellent amenities, including a fine in-house restaurant.
8. Casa Del Vasaio
Price Range: Budget-friendly (€€)
Type: Bed & Breakfast
Occupying a medieval building, this B&B offers charming rooms with period furniture. Great for travelers interested in soaking up the town’s historic ambiance.
