Wild Boar, Good Wine and a Pergola: Lunch at Agnese in Civita di Bagnoregio
Osteria al Forno di Agnese, at Via Santa Maria del Cassero 38 in Civita di Bagnoregio, is a small family restaurant tucked among the medieval houses of one of Lazio’s most extraordinary villages. The ivy-covered courtyard, stone walls and shaded pergola are reason enough to stop, but the kitchen has plenty to say for itself: wild boar pappardelle, handmade pincinelle, chicken alla civitonica, grilled meat and some rather tempting homemade desserts.
Founded in 1968 by Agnese, grandmother of the current owners, the osteria serves the rustic cooking of Tuscia, the northern Lazio territory where Umbrian, Roman and Tuscan traditions have been rubbing shoulders for centuries. Olive oil, legumes, handmade pasta, pork and aromatic herbs form the backbone of the menu, with a few more playful combinations involving pistachios, hazelnuts and seasonal ingredients.
The food is generous without being particularly complicated, and the restaurant has enough personality to stand apart from the predictable tourist menus of Civita di Bagnoregio. Better still, you can enjoy a proper lunch under the pergola without paying a fortune simply because you’re eating in one of Italy’s most photographed villages.
The Antipasto di Agnese Is a Good Place to Start
The Antipasto di Agnese brings together local cured meats, cheeses and rustic accompaniments, with bread and the restaurant’s own extra virgin olive oil.
Tuscia has a wonderful tradition of pork products, from country-style salami to cured pancetta and seasoned sausages. These are assertive, savoury flavours, especially when paired with mature sheep’s milk cheese and good bread.
The crostoni deserve attention too. One particularly satisfying combination brings together lardo, walnuts and honey: the fat softens against the warm toasted bread, the walnuts add crunch and the honey tempers the saltiness.
Seasonal bruschette can be equally enjoyable, especially when asparagus or other local vegetables take the lead.
An antipasto is a good introduction to the kitchen, although sharing one leaves considerably more room for the pasta.
Pappardelle with Wild Boar Ragù Are the Classic Order
The pappardelle al cinghiale are among the restaurant’s most characteristic dishes.
Broad ribbons of egg pasta carry a rich wild boar ragù, slow-cooked until the meat becomes tender and the sauce develops a deep, savoury flavour. Wild boar has more character than ordinary pork, with a slightly earthy edge that suits red wine, herbs and long cooking.
Pappardelle are particularly good with this kind of ragù. Their broad surface holds the sauce, while the richness of the egg pasta softens the stronger flavour of the meat.
This is the sort of hearty countryside cooking that belongs in Tuscia, where game, handmade pasta and substantial meat sauces have long been part of the local repertoire.
For something different, fettuccine with white Chianina beef ragù offer a gentler, more delicate take on slow-cooked meat.
Pincinelle with Pistachio Pesto Have a Different Personality
The pincinelle al pesto di pistacchio bring a more contemporary touch to the menu.
Pincinelle are thick, hand-shaped strands of pasta, similar to pici, with a pleasantly chewy texture that gives them considerably more bite than delicate egg noodles.
Pistachio pesto adds a creamy, nutty richness, coating the pasta without needing a heavy tomato or meat sauce.
Other preparations include sedanini with sausage, chopped hazelnuts and cream, an indulgent combination in which the savoury meat is balanced by the sweetness and crunch of nuts.
There are also mezzelune stuffed with meat and served with ragù, and a comforting farro and legume soup for anyone who prefers something simpler.
The pasta menu is pleasantly varied. Wild boar remains the more traditional order, but the pistachio dishes provide a welcome change from the familiar ragù-and-tomato formula.
Pollo alla Civitonica Is the House Speciality
The pollo alla civitonica is one of Agnese’s signature dishes and a particularly interesting expression of local cooking.
This traditional chicken preparation belongs to the culinary heritage of Civita di Bagnoregio, drawing on the robust flavours and straightforward techniques of rural Lazio.
The appeal lies in the well-seasoned meat and its savoury cooking juices rather than elaborate garnishes. It is the sort of chicken dish that calls for bread on the side, preferably enough to mop up the sauce.
Agnese also prepares baffo al pomodoro, another rustic speciality built around pork and tomato sauce.
The name baffo refers to a cut of pork associated with the cheek or fatty jowl. Its rich texture is particularly suited to slow cooking, while tomato brings acidity and prevents the dish from becoming excessively heavy.
These are the dishes that give the osteria a recognisable local identity. You can eat grilled meat almost anywhere, but pollo alla civitonica and baffo al pomodoro belong much more closely to this corner of Lazio.
Beans with Anchovies Are Better Than They Sound
The fagioli in salsa di alici are one of the most interesting side dishes on the menu.
Beans are a staple of central Italian cooking, prized for their creamy texture, mild flavour and ability to absorb the character of a sauce.
Anchovies introduce salt and umami without overwhelming the legumes. Once incorporated into the dressing, they contribute a savoury depth that makes the beans considerably more interesting than an ordinary boiled vegetable side.
The combination is earthy, salty and satisfying, particularly alongside grilled meat or chicken.
Arrosticini and Grilled Meat Keep Things Rustic
The arrosticini di pecora are another attractive choice, bringing a touch of neighbouring Abruzzo to the menu.
These narrow skewers of sheep meat are grilled over intense heat, developing a browned exterior while retaining the distinctive flavour of the meat. Salt is usually all they need.
The kitchen also prepares mixed grilled pork, beef tagliata and other meat dishes, offering plenty of alternatives for anyone who prefers the grill to slow-cooked sauces.
The arrosticini have the advantage of being uncomplicated and easy to share. Add a portion of vegetables and a glass of red wine, and there is very little else required.
The Seasonal Tiramisù Is Worth Saving Room For
Agnese takes a playful approach to one of Italy’s most familiar desserts.
Alongside traditional coffee tiramisù, the kitchen prepares seasonal versions flavoured with strawberries, lemon or mandarin.
The strawberry version is particularly appealing in warmer weather. The fruit adds freshness and gentle acidity to the mascarpone cream, making the dessert feel lighter than its richness might suggest.
Lemon tiramisù offers a sharper citrus character, while mandarin brings a sweeter, more aromatic fragrance.
There is also chocolate cake with ricotta and pears, a more substantial dessert in which the mild sweetness of the fruit contrasts with dark chocolate.
Local Wines and a Taste of Tuscia
The wine selection gives particular attention to central Italy, an appropriate choice for cooking built around game, pork and handmade pasta.
A Lazio Grechetto is an attractive companion to bruschette, vegetable dishes and the bean-and-anchovy preparation. Its fresh acidity and slightly savoury character balance olive oil and salty ingredients.
With wild boar ragù or pollo alla civitonica, a Ciliegiolo from Tuscia brings juicy red fruit, moderate tannins and enough freshness for the richer sauces.
For grilled sheep meat or substantial pork dishes, a Montepulciano-based red offers more body and depth.
The Pergola Is Half the Pleasure
Osteria al Forno di Agnese occupies a particularly charming corner of Civita di Bagnoregio, the hilltop settlement famous for its fragile volcanic cliffs and dramatic pedestrian bridge.
The restaurant’s courtyard is sheltered by climbing plants and a leafy pergola, with rustic tables surrounded by old stone buildings. Indoors, the small dining room preserves a traditional atmosphere, with simple furnishings and the intimate proportions of a village osteria.
The outdoor tables are especially attractive in spring and autumn, when the weather is mild enough for a leisurely lunch.
During summer weekends and holidays, however, Civita can become extremely crowded. The restaurant fills quickly, the pace of service becomes brisk and the quiet atmosphere is harder to appreciate.
Arriving early for lunch is a much better idea than joining the midday rush.
Service, Prices and Value
Agnese combines family-run hospitality with the energy of a busy restaurant in one of Lazio’s most visited villages.
The food remains the principal attraction, particularly the homemade pasta, regional meat dishes and seasonal desserts. The outdoor setting adds considerable charm, although service can feel hurried when the courtyard and dining room are full.
A typical meal costs around €30 per person.
Considering the location, the prices are reasonable. Portions vary between dishes, so a shared antipasto followed by pasta or a main course is a sensible way to order.
Useful Information
- Restaurant: Osteria al Forno di Agnese
- Address: Via Santa Maria del Cassero 38, 01022 Civita di Bagnoregio, Viterbo, Italy
- Area: Historic centre of Civita di Bagnoregio
- Cuisine: Traditional Tuscia and northern Lazio cooking
- Established: 1968
- Specialities: Pollo alla civitonica, baffo al pomodoro, wild boar pappardelle, pincinelle with pistachio pesto
- Other dishes: Arrosticini, beans with anchovies, grilled pork, mezzelune with ragù and farro soup
- Desserts: Seasonal tiramisù, chocolate cake with ricotta and pears
- Typical budget: €20–€30 per person
- Wine: Italian selection with particular attention to central Italy
- Vegetarian options: Vegetable bruschette, farro and legume soup, selected pasta and salads
- Gluten-free options: Available
- Outdoor dining: Shaded courtyard with pergola
- Reservations: Recommended, particularly at weekends; restrictions may apply during peak visitor periods
- Lunch: Daily, 11:30–15:30
- Dinner: Daily, 19:30–21:30
- Telephone: +39 0761 792571
- Payment: Credit cards accepted
- Access: Civita di Bagnoregio is reached on foot via its pedestrian bridge
- Best for: Traditional Tuscia cuisine, homemade pasta, local meat dishes and lunch under a leafy pergola
Our Rating of Osteria al Forno di Agnese
Food: 8.7/10
Hearty regional cooking with a few creative touches, particularly in the pasta and dessert selections.
Homemade Pasta: 8.9/10
Wild boar pappardelle, pistachio pincinelle and meat-filled mezzelune provide the strongest choices.
Traditional Specialities: 9/10
Pollo alla civitonica, baffo al pomodoro and beans with anchovies give the restaurant a genuine Tuscia identity.
Meat Dishes: 8.6/10
Grilled arrosticini, pork and beef add variety, although the local slow-cooked recipes have more personality.
Desserts: 8.9/10
Seasonal tiramisù, especially strawberry and lemon, offers a refreshing alternative to the usual coffee version.
Atmosphere: 9.4/10
A lovely ivy-covered courtyard, rustic interiors and the extraordinary setting of Civita di Bagnoregio.
Service: 8.3/10
Friendly, informal hospitality, with a faster and occasionally uneven rhythm during busy tourist periods.
Value for Money: 8.8/10
Traditional cooking and reasonable prices in a village where the remarkable location could easily justify higher bills.
Overall Rating: 8.8/10
