Tortellini, Lambrusco and Absolutely No Dieting: Inside Modena’s Il Fantino
Trattoria Il Fantino, at Via Donzi 7 in the historic centre of Modena, is the sort of old-fashioned Emilian restaurant where handmade pasta, fried gnocco and a generous glass of Lambrusco still carry more weight than fashionable cooking. A short walk from the Ghirlandina and Piazza Grande, this small, lively trattoria specialises in the dishes that made Modena one of Italy’s great food cities.
Known locally as El Fantein, the restaurant has roots in the early twentieth century and preserves the atmosphere of a traditional neighbourhood tavern. Wooden furnishings, photographs, shelves crowded with bottles and a counter displaying cured meats give the dining room a relaxed, slightly chaotic personality.
During our 2026 visit, Il Fantino delivered exactly what we expect from a traditional Modenese trattoria: generous homemade pasta, hot gnocco fritto, plenty of Lambrusco and a lively dining room where nobody seems particularly interested in culinary fashion.
Gnocco Fritto and Tigelle Are the Essential Starting Point
The best way to begin is with gnocco fritto and tigelle, accompanied by a generous assortment of local cured meats.
Gnocco fritto is one of Modena’s most beloved specialities. Small pieces of dough are fried until they puff into golden, irregular cushions, with a delicate crust and an airy interior. They should arrive hot, light and only slightly oily.
The contrast with tigelle, more accurately called crescentine in Modena, is particularly appealing. These small round breads are cooked on a hot griddle, developing a lightly toasted exterior while remaining soft enough to split and fill.
At Il Fantino, the accompaniments include prosciutto, salami, coppa, Parmigiano Reggiano and lardo, traditionally seasoned with garlic and rosemary.
Tortellini in Brodo Are the Real Test of a Modenese Kitchen
The tortellini in brodo, sometimes presented as Tortellini della Bice, are among Il Fantino’s most important specialities.
These tiny parcels of egg pasta contain a traditional filling based on pork, cured meat and Parmigiano Reggiano. Each tortellino is folded around the fingertip, creating the characteristic ring-shaped pasta that has become one of Emilia-Romagna’s culinary symbols.
The broth is essential. A proper meat broth should be clear, fragrant and sufficiently concentrated to complement the filling without overwhelming it.
Pumpkin Tortelloni Bring Sweetness and Savoury Depth
The pumpkin tortelloni offer a completely different expression of stuffed pasta.
Larger than tortellini, these parcels contain a soft filling in which pumpkin provides sweetness and a creamy texture. The precise balance of ingredients varies throughout Emilia, with Parmigiano Reggiano and aromatic seasonings helping to give the filling a more savoury character.
At Il Fantino, pumpkin pasta is one of the recurring house specialities.
Butter and sage are particularly appropriate accompaniments: the butter adds richness, while the herbal fragrance prevents the sweetness of the pumpkin from becoming excessive.
Compared with tortellini in broth, pumpkin tortelloni are fuller, softer and more immediately comforting.
Strigoli with Porcini and Pancetta Are Worth the Detour
The strigoli with porcini mushrooms and pancetta are among the most distinctive dishes at Il Fantino.
Strigoli are short, hand-shaped pieces of pasta with an irregular, twisted form and a pleasantly firm texture. Their uneven surface captures sauces particularly well, making them suitable for rustic preparations.
Porcini mushrooms contribute an earthy, woodland fragrance and a fleshy texture, while pancetta introduces salt, fat and a more assertive savoury character.
It is a rich combination, but the pasta has enough substance to hold its own.
The Tris di Primi Is the Smartest Order
One of Il Fantino’s most appealing features is the opportunity to order a tris di primi, a selection of three pasta preparations.
It is particularly useful for visitors who want to experience several Modenese specialities without committing to three separate full-sized courses.
The selection can include tortellini, pumpkin tortelloni, tagliatelle, gramigna or other handmade pasta dishes, depending on availability.
The different shapes are not simply decorative. They change the way the pasta interacts with broth, meat sauces, butter and cheese.
Pork Ribs Braised in Lambrusco Are the House Speciality
The costine di maiale brasate al Lambrusco are among the dishes most closely associated with Il Fantino.
Pork ribs are slowly cooked with Lambrusco wine until the meat becomes tender and the cooking liquid reduces into a concentrated sauce.
Lambrusco brings acidity, fruit and a slightly tannic edge, helping to balance the natural richness of the pork. During braising, the alcohol evaporates and the wine becomes part of the sauce rather than remaining a separate flavour.
The ribs are typically accompanied by roasted potatoes, which absorb the cooking juices and provide a satisfying contrast to the soft meat.
This is not the sticky, sweet style of barbecue ribs. It belongs firmly to Emilian home cooking, where wine is often used as an ingredient rather than merely served in the glass.
There Is More to the Menu Than Pork Ribs
Although the ribs attract considerable attention, Il Fantino also serves other traditional meat dishes.
Meatballs with peas are a typical example of modest Emilian cooking: tender minced meat, vegetables and a savoury sauce that makes the dish substantial without requiring expensive cuts.
Chicken with balsamic vinegar introduces another important Modenese ingredient. The acidity of the vinegar gives the meat a more pronounced character and balances the richness of the cooking juices.
Zuppa Inglese Is the Dessert to Try
The dessert menu remains close to Emilia-Romagna’s traditional repertoire.
Zuppa inglese is the natural choice. This classic dessert combines layers of sponge cake or biscuits soaked in Alchermes with pastry cream and chocolate custard.
The bright red liqueur gives the dessert its characteristic colour and aromatic personality, while the custards provide a rich, creamy texture.
Other familiar options include panna cotta with amarena cherries, chocolate salami and homemade fruit tarts.
Chocolate salami is particularly representative of Italian family cooking. Cocoa, biscuits and butter are combined into a dense mixture, shaped into a log and sliced like cured meat.
Lambrusco Is the Only Wine You Really Need
Modena is Lambrusco country, and Il Fantino is exactly the kind of restaurant where this often underestimated wine makes complete sense.
A dry Lambrusco di Sorbara is an excellent choice with gnocco fritto, cured meats and tortellini. Its bright acidity, delicate structure and lively bubbles help refresh the palate between bites.
For pork ribs, a more substantial Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro offers darker fruit, greater concentration and enough tannic structure to accompany the meat.
The Dining Room Has the Personality of an Old Modena Trattoria
Il Fantino is small, informal and often noisy.
The interior is decorated with photographs, memorabilia, bottles and traditional furnishings, while the visible cured-meat counter reinforces its old-fashioned gastronomic character.
The tables are relatively close together, and the restaurant fills quickly, particularly at weekends.
That intimacy is both an advantage and a limitation. The atmosphere is convivial and distinctly Emilian, but this is not the ideal choice for a quiet romantic dinner or anyone who dislikes crowded dining rooms.
The service is friendly, energetic and occasionally theatrical, with the easy familiarity associated with traditional Italian taverns.
Service, Prices and Value
Il Fantino remains one of the more accessible addresses for traditional Modenese cooking in the historic centre.
The strongest feature is the combination of handmade pasta, generous portions and straightforward regional dishes.
For an ordinary meal, 40 per person is a reasonable budget, depending on the number of courses and the wine.
Useful Information
- Restaurant: Trattoria Il Fantino
- Address: Via Donzi 7, 41121 Modena, Italy
- Area: Historic centre, near Piazza Grande and the Ghirlandina
- Cuisine: Traditional Modenese and Emilian
- Specialities: Gnocco fritto, tigelle, tortellini in broth, pumpkin tortelloni, strigoli and Lambrusco-braised pork ribs
- Other dishes: Gramigna with sausage, meatballs with peas, chicken with balsamic vinegar
- Traditional desserts: Zuppa inglese, chocolate salami, panna cotta and homemade tarts
- Typical budget: Approximately €25–€40 per person
- Tasting menus: Previously published at €35 and €40; current prices and availability should be confirmed
- Wine: Lambrusco di Sorbara, Grasparossa and other regional wines
- Vegetarian options: Available, including selected pasta dishes; fillings and sauces should be checked
- Atmosphere: Small, informal and lively traditional trattoria
- Outdoor seating: Not available
- Reservations: Strongly recommended
- Monday: Closed
- Tuesday–Friday: 12:30–14:00 / 19:15–22:30
- Saturday: 12:30–14:30 / 19:15–22:30
- Sunday: 12:30–14:30
- Telephone: +39 059 223646
- Payment: Major payment cards accepted
- Best for: Homemade Emilian pasta, gnocco fritto, tigelle, Lambrusco and traditional Modenese cooking
Our Rating of Trattoria Il Fantino Modena
Food: 8.8/10
Generous traditional cooking built around fresh pasta, cured meats and satisfying regional specialities.
Homemade Pasta: 9.1/10
Tortellini, pumpkin tortelloni and strigoli provide a particularly appealing introduction to Modena’s pasta traditions.
Gnocco Fritto and Tigelle: 9.2/10
Hot fried dough, freshly prepared crescentine and local salumi are among the restaurant’s strongest attractions.
Meat Dishes: 8.7/10
Lambrusco-braised ribs stand out, supported by a selection of familiar Emilian recipes.
Desserts: 8.5/10
Zuppa inglese, chocolate salami and traditional sweets provide a satisfying homemade finish.
Atmosphere: 8.9/10
A cheerful, crowded old-fashioned trattoria with considerable personality, although comfort is limited during busy sittings.
Service: 8.6/10
Warm and animated hospitality, occasionally affected by the restaurant’s popularity and fast turnover.
Value for Money: 9/10
Substantial portions and accessible complete-menu options make Il Fantino competitive for central Modena.
Overall Rating: 8.9/10
