Ronco dei Tassi Malvasia 2024 Review: Old Vines, Ponca and a Precise Collio White
Meta Description: Ronco dei Tassi Malvasia 2024 delivers peach, citrus, herbs and saline depth from old vines on Monte Quarin.
Ronco dei Tassi’s Malvasia 2024 comes from old Malvasia Istriana vines on Monte Quarin at Cormòns, in the heart of the Collio. The vineyard sits at around 200 metres above sea level on the region’s characteristic Eocene marl and sandstone, locally known as ponca, and the vines are around sixty years old.
The 2024 is fermented in stainless steel rather than wood, preserving the grape’s naturally aromatic character. At 13.5% ABV, it has more substance than a simple aromatic white but retains the freshness and saline profile expected from a good Collio Malvasia.
The Basics
- Producer: Ronco dei Tassi
- Wine: Malvasia
- Vintage: 2024
- Appellation: Collio DOC
- Area: Cormòns, Friuli Venezia Giulia
- Grape: 100% Malvasia Istriana
- Vineyard: Monte Quarin
- Altitude: Around 200 m
- Soil: Eocene marl and sandstone
- Vine age: Around 60 years
- Vinification: Stainless steel
- Alcohol: 13.5%
- Serving temperature: 10–12°C
- Typical retail price: Around €15–€18
Appearance
Bright straw yellow, with enough depth of colour to suggest good ripeness without moving toward golden tones.
Nose
The nose is expressive but controlled, combining white peach, apricot, lemon peel and ripe apple with acacia blossom and a distinct herbal edge. As it opens, subtle notes of Mediterranean herbs and a lightly stony sensation add complexity without obscuring the fruit.
This is aromatic in the Malvasia Istriana sense rather than overtly perfumed: more herbs, citrus and stone fruit than exotic flowers or sweetness.
Palate
Medium-bodied and broad on entry, with ripe peach and yellow fruit quickly tightened by lively acidity and a distinctly saline, savoury centre. The old vines give the wine more depth than its straightforward stainless-steel vinification might suggest.
The balance between softness and freshness is particularly convincing. There is enough ripeness to give volume, but the finish remains dry and energetic rather than creamy or heavy.
Finish
Persistent, clean and lightly herbal, with citrus peel, stone fruit and saline notes continuing after the main fruit fades. A subtle bitter note adds definition and keeps the finish distinctly gastronomic.
Ready to Drink?
Yes. The 2024 is in an excellent youthful phase, where fruit, herbs and freshness are at their clearest.
There is no urgency, however. The combination of old vines, acidity and Collio terroir should allow it to develop positively for another 2–4 years, gradually gaining waxier and more complex herbal tones.
Food Pairings
Excellent with grilled sea bass, Adriatic shellfish, seafood risotto, baked turbot and pasta with clams. Its aromatic side also suits asparagus, herbs and vegetable-based first courses, while the wine has enough body for roast poultry or lighter white meats.
Price and Value
Current retail pricing is around €15–€18, an attractive level for a Collio DOC from old vines on Monte Quarin.
At this price, the appeal lies less in power than in precision: genuine vineyard age, classic ponca soils and enough aromatic personality to distinguish it clearly from more neutral Italian whites.
Final Thoughts
Ronco dei Tassi Malvasia 2024 captures the qualities that make Malvasia Istriana so interesting in the Collio. Peach, apricot and citrus provide the fruit, while herbs, acidity and a marked saline element keep the wine dry and articulate.
The old vines add depth without requiring oak, and the 2024 remains lively enough to drink now while possessing enough substance for short-term ageing.
It is a clean, characterful expression of Cormòns rather than an exaggerated aromatic white.
