Biancolella Wine Guide
Biancolella is the white grape variety typical of the island of Ischia, Procida, Capri and the whole Amalfi coast, where it has been cultivated for centuries, so much so that some think it is one of the vines brought by the Greek colonists who founded the first colonies.
There are no testimonies or evidence to support this thesis, however, it is undeniable that the Biancolella vine is the undisputed champion of the whole coast, but above all of Ischia, where an incredibly elegant and deep wine is produced. But not only thanks to the elegance of this vine, in fact, but the merit is also of the volcanic soils of the island of Ischia, which have been created over the millennia, layer by layer, eruption after eruption.
But what is so special about Biancolella wine and why should you drink it, not to mention that it is also quite difficult to find it, given that cultivation is limited to a few hundred hectares?
The answer is simple: Biancolella is a unique wine. It is not stratospheric or Pindaric, it is not to be placed in the cellar for 30 years, however, the particular conditions of terroir present in Ischia and the characteristics of the wine combine to create an unrepeatable wine. And like all precious treasures it is rare, an artisanal wine, indeed heroic like those of Valtellina. Because in Ischia the vineyards overlooking the sea rise in steep, narrow and difficult to cultivate volcanic terraces, not to mention that some vineyards reach an altitude of 500 meters above sea level. There are no Alps, but it is not a walk. And then these terraces and walls are to be maintained. For this reason, cultivating Biancolella is a matter of love and pride, not just a gainful activity.
Organoleptic characteristics of Biancolella wine
The bouquet is sunny, splendid for delicacy with a fruity that ranges from plums to citrus fruits, touching almonds and hazelnuts. There is a very slight hint of spice, little to say the truth, it is not like Falanghina which has smoky features, but some spices such as nutmeg and pepper can be felt. Flowers are another great clue to recognize Biancolella: mimosa, jasmine and hawthorn are often found. However, the peculiarity of this Ischia wine is the call of the sea: Mediterranean scrub, cypress, pine, almost a call of salt and algae, resins. Do not think of a heavy, redundant or too overwhelming bouquet, quite the opposite.
The palate of the Biancolella wine is sharp, driven by an electrifying sapid vein: it has pulp, juicy and full of salt that splashes from every pore. The structure is medium, but the sensation of minerality is satisfying, thanks to the volcanic soils of the island of Ischia. The finish is iodized, full of aromatic herbs, long and persistent. It is not a fat, sumptuous wine, on the contrary, it is all played on light and subtle tones, despite having an excellent acid-savory dynamism.
Biancolella production areas
On the island of Ischia, Biancolella is present in purity in the Ischia Biancolella DOC or blended with Forastera or Coglionara in the Ischia Bianco wine. In Procida, it is known as Teneddu, while in Capri they call it Bianco or San Nicola and it is present in the DOC Capri. We also find it on the coast in the DOC Penisola Sorrentina DOC and the Costa d’Amalfi DOC often blended with Falanghina and other typical Campania vines and finally also in the cradle of Campania viticulture, namely in the Campi Flegrei DOC, always in blend with Falanghina.
Recommended pairings for Biancolella wine
It is a sea wine, savory and fresh, never too structured or alcoholic, so by assonance, combine it with Campania fish cuisine, pizza Margherita, endive pizza, casatiello, fried anchovies, zucchini in scapece, pasta alla puttanesca, potato croquettes. But it is also excellent with Chinese and Japanese cuisine, both fish and vegetarian.